
(toss 
Book 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



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SWAIN 4 TATE CO., PHINTEH3, MILWAUKEE. 



COPYBIGHTEO 8V H. H BENNETT, 1686. 



Hutoorapbs of Our fl>art\> auo tfncioente of Our Sta\> at tbc ©ells. 



TLhc Wisconsin £>clls. 



— © — ® — ®@- — ®- — ® — 



In calling the attention of the readers of this little 1 kin the 

rare beauty and wonders of the region il attempts to describe, we feel 
! hat we arc. only performing a pleasant duty we owe every lover oi 
the picturesque and beautiful in nature. As it may come to the notice 
of some who have never visited the Dells of the Wisconsin, we be- 
lieve the first information given should be as to locality and hofl to 
best reach the place. In brief, then, the Dells are about one hundred 
and twenty-five miles above where the Wisconsin River empties into 
the Mississippi at Prairie du Chien, a little south and west of what 
would be considered the center of the state. Four daily passenger 
trains from Chicago and Milwaukee on the east and from Minneapolis 
andSt.Paulonthe northwest.over the direct route between these points 
of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Railroad, afford ready commit 
aication with all parts of the country with the little Village of Kil- 
bourn City, Wisconsin; and here, reader, you are invited to stop ami 
look about a little, and we leave the probability of your stay for 
the sunnier, or the repetition of your \isit, to he settled in your own 

mind, after a day in the Dells. Our hotel accommodations are excel- 
lent, and for such as prefer the quiet of a home, private hoarding 
houses offer all that can he desired. Safe, pleasant and commodious 
steamers, under the efficient management of the "Wisconsin Dells Ke- 
sort Company," ply the river subject to the order of tourists within 
such limits as to time as will best accommodate all their patrons. 

The Dells consist of a series of Potsdam sandstone cliffs extend- 
ing about seven miles along the banks of the Wisconsin River. By 
the action of the water these cliffs, soft and friable, have been cut into 
such grotesque, curious and beautiful forms, and of such endless vari- 
ety, that the eye never tires of looking at them. The. ride on the 



river is not, the hast among the attractions of a visit here. The stream 
at the head of the Dells isbroadand shallow and dotted with a bevy 
of lovely green islands, heavily timbered with oak, willow and a 
sprinkling of evergreens. As it enters the pass between the cliffs the 
river narrows and deepens, till midway down it is confined for a mile 
to less than a hundred feet, and in one place the rocky shores have 
bugged the stream into the space of fifty-two feet. The rocks on 
either side are covered with dowers and ferns anil mosses down to the 
water's edge, and these, under the bright sun, are most charmingly 
reproduced in the still waters below. Through this delightful passage 
by sunlightand by moonlight, the little steamer ploughs its way, and 
old and young, and everybody, tell us it. is passing beautiful. No little 
pains and expense have been taken to make the more remarkable 
glens and canons accessible for ladies and it. is possible to visit 
"Witches' Gulch," "Coldwater Canon," "E 1's (den," and a hun- 
dred other points of interest, with ease and comfort. All those ra- 
vines and caverns unnumbered abound in the curious, the wild and 
the weird. 

As to the best way to seethe Dells, those who have tried it will cer- 
tainly tell you to take the steamer for the. up-stream trip, but before 
leaving the lam ling to engage a guide, with his staunch and comfortable 
keel boat to bringyou back, thus giving an opportunityof seeing so much 
in detail that is not seen or realized from the steamer's deck, and 
where landing a steamboat is impossible. The guides here are strong, 
capable, courteous and obliging gentlemen, who have spent years in 
their work, thereby becoming expert with oars and the management 
of their boats, knowing where everything of interest is to be found, 
with certain knowledge of the location of every sand bar or reef of 



L ," fcf««y"«*myou ,-| w to be your own guide and oars- 

man .they will furnish you a boat to be token up bj the steamer; or 
the trip ran be made both ways on the steamer, which affords time to 
visit Coldwater Canon and Witches' Gulch. Two round trips are made 
each day, in both forenoon and afternoon, and, in addition, occasional 
moonlight excursions, which are particularly enjoyable 

' "ccasionally Indians are to be met about the Dells now but no 
ar ago than the late 1850's there were great numbers of them here 
subsisting chiefly by hunting and fishing, (he river yielding large 
quanUties of sturgeon, catfish, pickerel, bass and many other varieties 
of fish to their expert use of spear and line. Then, and prior to that 
time, there were three tribes ben, Chippewas, Menomonees and 
Winnebagoes, easily distinguished by the color of blanket worn The 

^g^ofthesetribesdifferedquitematerially.yetnotsomuchsothat 
they could not understand one another very well with the aid of signs 

. v ater fl '" y weTe amoved to reservations North and in the West 
rs it any wonder they did not wan., to go, leavinga region so beautiful 
and Perfectly adapted to their life, and that they should protest em- 
phatically against being com- 
pelled to go, even to the ex- 
tent of deciding in their coun- 
cils, as the Winnebagoes did, 
Who were the last to he taken' 
away (about 1S70), that they 
would fightif necessary rather 
than be removed to Nebraska? 
But their war spirit fled when 
a few troops came and they 
went peacefully, though many 
of them came hark on foot, 
reaching here sooner than 
the agents who took them 
away did by modern convey- 
ance. 




u .,.- '"" r "' "1 la«d and so could not be compelled 1 

»as ellow thunder (Wah-kon-ja-z-gah), a warrior chief; homd, on 
J^red -d twenty years old at the time of the removal of u£Z 
his war spmtwas aroused to such ' 

an extent that he counseled re- 
sistance, even to the shedding the 
last drop of his pepole's blood. 
His farm, acquired under An- 
drew Jackson's administration, 
was located about five miles from 
the foot of the Dells and consisted 
of a forty-acre tract, quite well 
cultivated, and on which then 
was a log house, hut the old man 
preferred to live in a tent (Wouc- 
chig-ah-che-dah) close by, except 
at times when he was desirous of 
adopting (he customs of civiliza- 
tion, then he WOUld sleep in the 

house, inside the rails,, fan old 
bedstead, upon the ground, the 
house having no floor. 

A belief of the older ones of 
these people is that a part of their 




NAH-JU-ZE-GAH- 



-BROWN EYES. 



YELLOW THUNDER. 



life goes .into a picture taken of themselves, this superstition was a 

source of trouble, not to say danger, to an artist who mana-o.l I , 

ap.e.un.of fellow Thunder in the autumn preceding the'springln 
which he died, because many of his tribe believed that in some mys- 
terious way the process of making the picture had absorbed what 
should have been the remaining years of his life. 

They are an interesting people, full of tradition, superstition and 
beliefs that will ann.se, if n ,,i he instructive, t,, anv one « bo can gain 
their good w.ll and so persuade them I,, talk of themselves 



■M 



_ "Any attempt at description of the l>ells would be incomplete 
without reference to the studio of II. H. I (en net t, located in Kilbourn, 
whose views of the Dells first broughl them to the notice of the out- 
Bide world, and which have attained a degree of photographic and 
artistic merit that has given him rank with the host landscape photo 
artists of the world. 
At his place you will 
finda largeand varied 
collection of pictures, 
ii, ,1 aloneofthe Dells, 
luil of the surround- 
ing scenic attractions. 
\,,t, the least of the 
pleasure of our visit 
t,i the Dells was the 
time spent in tin' 
Bennett Btudio." 

'I'lir accompany- 
ing illustrations an' 
half-tone reproduc- 
tions from a few of 
tin- many hundred 
excell e n t photo- 
graphic views em- 
braced in Mr. Bi'ii- 
nett's collection. 

Candor requires 
a n d inclinati o n 



principal points in tbc "Upper Bells. 







LOWES JAWS OF THE DELLS, 



Angel Rock is situated about one-half mile from the steamer 
landing, on the right hand side of the river as you go up the stream, 

and is a rugged pro- 

jeetion, curiously 

shaped. It is also 
called Marble Rock, 
from the peculiar, lit- 
tle, round lumps of 
sandstone found on 
the ledge and in the 
river below. 

Swallows' Rock, 
or \\ here t lie swallow a 

live, is a little further 
along on the same 

side. In early spring 
and summer, thou- 
sands of beautiful lit- 
tle swallows ma\ be 
Seen here filling the 

air and in the brown 
cliffs, occupying in- 
numerable holes ill 
the rock, sale from 
anywhere. 



pr pts the statement, that in the preparation of this book, liberal danger, and the happiest family to be foun 

use has been made of the contents of a "Guide for Tourists," published The Jaws op the Dells, or entrance to the hells proper, are 

some years ago by Mr. 1'. ( ). Wisner, and for which we cheerfully guarded by two immense rocks, standing like sentinels on duty and 

acknowledge obligation. sternly looking down in their stately grandeur, as if disputing the 



right of man I" explore the intricate passage beyond. The rock on 
the righl is called 

Hk;ii Rock, and rises seventy-five feet above the river. It pre- 
sents a rugged, rough aspect, with curiously shaped sides, and has a 
meagre growth of stunted pines, birch and oilier trees and foliage. 
On the left is 

Rom \m i: Cliff, which is a grand old pile of stately rocks covered 
with a growth of trees and shrubbery. It is somewhat higher and 
more stalely than its vis-a-vis, High Rock, and has more of the 

curious and wonderful in its 
make-up a nd general appear- 
ance. It is suggestive of the 
stately crags and beetling cliffs 
of the weird and grand scen- 
ery of the Rocky .Mountains. 
rids and Indian romances 
are told of t his wonderful cliff. 

Chimney Rock. — This is 
one of Nature's singular freaks. 
left standing for innumerable 
ages, formed by the action of 
the w ilil waters, looking like 
the old-fashioned stick-and- 
mortar chimney of the days of 
the forefathers. It stands just 
hey. .ml 1 [igh Rock. 

Echo < !ove. — A most pleas- 
ing echo can be had bere, and 
it is a beautiful place for bath- 
ingand enjoying a quiet hour 
chimney rock and HIGH roi k. in a cool, pleasant ret feat. 

The Oi d I ni i. I ha sEat Allen's Landing, on the left, is one of the 
oldest lenses in this part of the country. It is a block house, made of 



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91 




■ . 





square timber originally, but in later years covered with siding, built 
by Robert V. Allen in 1S37-8, who kept it as a tavern for many years, he 
also established a ferry across the river at this point, it being one of the 
principal lines of travel for the pioneers from the Great Lakes to the 
Mississippi ami the Pineries of Wisconsin. Then came the develop- 
ment of the pine lumber industries of the upper Wisconsin and its 
tributaries and the manufacture of vast quantities oflumber, which 
could only be got to market by rafting and floating it down the river 
to points on the Mississippi, where it could be used or from whence 
it could be conveyed inland for consumption. So, in time, this river 
became one of the greatest bighways for the conveying of lumber of 

any of the tributaries of the Mississippi. These were 1 ming clays 

for the old place, a point where the raftsmen could obtain supplies of 
food and liquid refreshment, for which they had various names. In 
extreme high water all the rafts that came from above had to he tied 
up at the head of the Hells, three miles farther up the stream, to 

await the fallng of the water to such a stage as would make the run- 
ning of the Narrows less dangerous; at such times great numbers of 
rafts, covering many acres, would accumulate around the mouth of 
Witches' < iulch and among the islands beyond, if the river remained 
very high, as it did many days almosl every spring Heed. As seen as 
the II 1 subsided enough to make the passage of the Narrows possi- 
ble by having several men on an oar, there was a busy time, each 
pilot striving to get his fleet through to the quiet water in the eddj at 
the Dell Housefirst. This having to put several men onto an oar 

through the Narrows necessitated a iber of trips for each crew to 

bring their respective fleets through this part of the Dells, and" giging 
bad " (walking) from the Hell House to the head of the Hells. By 

far the larger part of the raft sine ii in those days were net prominent 

as " Sens of Temperance " or kindred organizations, at least net con- 
sistetit members, and would, en landing safely al the Dell I louse, par- 
take free I \ of the ee nee nt rat I'd ri \ er water kept there for emergencies; 
if (he trip had net been successful and the raft had been broken 



up. ill'" something must be taken to the success of the next trip ; if 
one of the crew had been lost in the mad waters, partaking of some- 
thing in token of good wishes for his hereafter was uoi to be neg- 

lected by any means, and some- 
times like token was deemed 
necessary for the welfare of 
rath of his surviving relatives, 
an<l so the old place became 
I he scene of many a boisteri >us 
time, which may be all the 
foundation there is for the 
stories of the horrible crimes 
committed in and about the 
place in the early days. To- 
day no " Yellow River howl" 
announces the arrival of a fleet 
from that tributary, and we 
need net expect to meet lum- 
ber from < irand Rapids, or any 
of i be hig mills above; the rail- 
reads have got into the Pine- 
ries, and all the lumber goes to 
market in that, way; the rafts- 
men are gone, but the old house 
ta ads there, windowless ami 

deserted, open to everyone 
who may choose to visit its 

tenantless r< s. 

Chapel Gorge.— This is the next interesting place, is above the 
Dell House and on the right. It is named from the peculiarly shaped 
rock at its entrance, resembling a pulpit in a place of worship. The 
Gorge is pleasant and shady. 

Boat Cave is just, beyond the Gorge and may he explored with 
small boats. It should always be visited to be appreciated, although 




BOAT nil . 



a general idea may he had from the steamer's deck. It is one of the 
most peculiar formations, showing the action of the water upon the 
soft sandstone, ami is one of the places where the guides can get fire 
out of the water. 

Circle Bend, where the river and rocks form a half circle. The 
rocks are high and bold, presenting a cliff of solid masonry, formed 
and carved and hewn and worn into a wall of adamant by the action 
id' the whirling waters. Its top is covered with a dense growth of 
cedar, hemlock, pine, lurch, oak 
and all the many varieties of ferns 
and shrubbery that so abundantly 
abound throughout the I tells. 

Sturgeon Rock, on left, is a 
hold, projecting point. Here we 
enter upon the looked-for wild 
grandeur of the Dells. On the 
right is the 

Navy Yard.— To our mind this 
is the most picturesque and won- 
derful formation on the river. Here 
we have one of the most striking 
anil natural "Navies" to be found 
in the world. Neither perishable 
wooden or iron ships, formed and 
modeled by man, but those built by 
the hands of Him who hath formed 
all the wonders of nature. Huge 
stone vessels of war, these, with 
prows and sides and ribs so solid 
and staunch that for ages they have 
withstood the battlesand warring of 
the waters, and as time has rolled on they have become more complete 
and shapely in form and build. Bold guardians are they of the Narrows. 




3IANT s HAND. 



'" ,: GlAXT '» Hand is in a grotto between two of the hulks 
'" : "' ""' 1 "»<''' end of the Navy Yard. About two feet of the sleeve 
: ""' <"" feet ° f » lefl hand of stone is seen above the water and 
laid palm against the hulk in the right, as you view it from a row 
boat, so perfect in form that you wonder if to drain the water 
away fifty or more feet deep here would not disclose the Giant to 
"horn it belongs; leastways it is quite perfect enough to prove the 
'™th of an Indian legend, the substance of which is, thai the vessels 
»» the Navy Yard are some of Cortez' ships that came exploring in 
this northern country and the explorers treated the Indians so 
badly as to anger their God, who in his wrath laid Ins hand on the 
ships and turn,-.! them to stone. 

Eato.n Gkotto is a long, deep opening extending far into the 
rugged wall of rock, on the opposite side from the Navy Yard. 

Skylight Cave is a very similar opening to that of Eaton Grotto 
and is just at the head of the Navy Yard. Here, with a small hoat vou 
can seek the deep recess of the rock, lighted by a little riftin the rod 
overhead, [t is a delightful place to visit. 

Glen Eykie is on the right, and extends back from the river 
nearly a mile. It is a delightful place for a ramble, and is filled with 
'"'""""'I ferns and flowers. Across it, near the river, there is a fool 
b ndge r " r ""' convenience of those who love to ramble along the 
llverb ank, one of the many improvements made by the "Dells Resort 
< 'ompany." 

'I'm: Narrows oh I:, , K Hawk's L-EAP.-Here the river suddenly 
narrows to the width of only Jift,,-tu:o feet, and the water is tight,, fee', 

"' depth. 1 1.,- river is now running upon its edge, he ted in on 

ether side by ponderous rocks. In low water tin- current is nearlyas 

", mand P Iacidas at any point on the Delb, but when the river is up 
t-ic raging waters come pouring through this narrow gorge with ter- 

I 111.' Imcr. 



riiE Old B E m G E.-Aboui the year l;> is, Mr . Schuyler S Gates 
erectedasubstantial bridge across the Narrows. This wasthefirst bridge 
ever built across the Wisconsin, and was used for a number of years 
"l' until ih,. railroad 
bridge was built at 
Kilbourn. Thou- 
sands .if teams and 
passengers paid toll 
here. It vvascarried 
away by the high 
water of 1806. 

The Devil's El- 
bow is t I, ,. p i Mt 

w here t u e ri v e r 

makes an almost 

square I urn just at 

the entrance .if the 

Narrow 8. 

Black Hawk's 

( !ave can now lie 
see ii on th e left 
hand. It was here, 
the legend hath it. 
where tie- ..I.I chief 
Iiid sale and secure 
in the .lays of the 
Black Hawk war; and there is another story, that he leaped his 

pony from bank to bank to elude his pursuers. Of course we would 
net dispute the romance b) questioning the authenticity of this won- 
derful feat. 

Notch Rock.— This was the raft. nan's dread ..f the Narrows It is 
a square, boulder-looking rock on the left, and is known as Raftman's 




THE OLD BKIDGE. 






Terror, on which, in high water, rafts were often broken and lives lost. 
You can see ii < lose down to the water's edge. 

I; si ii i>\ vke Roi k is the high crag or solitary looking rock on the 
left, just back of Notch Rock. It is covered -with shrubbery. 

Sliding Rocks are here upon either side of the stream, and are so 
called from their peculiar formation — the sides being oval shaped and 
sliding inward, throwing the water to the center of the stream. 

Artist's Glen. — This is one of the most beautiful ravines on the 
river. It is on the right, nearly opposite Rattlesnake Rock. This 
glen is delightful for picnic grounds, and has a large number of fine 
butternut and other tn es, affording an elegant retreat. Just beyond, 

ug the trees, high up from the river, is 

The Laeks — neither birds, nor a lot of young men out for a time, 
but a cozy building erected by the "hells Resort Company" for a 
restuarant ami dancing hall, with wide verandas, from which fine 
views, both down into the Narrows ami up the river, are afforded, 
while across the river you can see lor some distance down the 

Old Channel o? the River, now choked by a high sandbank, 
which is en the left in going up the liver; but, high as it is in low 
water, some seasons the spring floods raise the river high enough so 
that a part of t lie stream runs ever it ami around a large tract of land, 
coming out and uniting again with the main river, near the old Dell 
Mouse, forming an island. About half a mile back from the old Dell 
[louse there is another branch, without water now, except a small 
creek part eft lie way, leading south and then east, joining the present 
river again a short distance below the railroad bridge at Kilbourn. 
Much of the way this old channel is as well defined as the present 
river, ami as interesting, several isolated rocks of strange shapes, that 
were islands, many caves ami grottoes in the high cliffs, along either 
side, much of the distance. 

If you are strong take a tramp through the old channel some time 
in the autumn, when the day is not too warm, ami you will enjoy it; 
but if you are feeble or indolent don't try it, for there is no boule- 



vard or sidewalk there, not even a country road or path that you tan 
use, hut a go-as-you-please route in the woods, over old sand bars, 
through the bushes and some of the way in the swamp, with an occa- 
sional climb to the top of a high cliff that will he rewarded by magni- 
lieent views and more extended than can be had from the low land. 

A few rods up the stream from "The Larks" and on the same side 
of the river is the mouth of 

( 'oldwater < ' a no n .—This canon is one of the grand features of the 
Dells. Land from the steamer, when a substantial plank walk takes 
you safely over the slack water. You proceed through the rocky 
defile and under the frowning crags, to the restaurant kept by Capt. 
C. D. Van Wie, who can satisfy your hunger for food and thirst for 
knowledge of the Dells, he having been for years a raftsman on the 
river, and at onetime captain of one of the steamers plying on the 
Dells. But a little further along up the canon, you come to that 
wonderful 

Devil's Jug. — The entrance is but a short distance from Captain 
Van Wie' s, and in a moment you reach a deep, wild, narrow gorge, 
walled in with rocks, which are, in some places, almost vertical, and 
in others overhanging the pathway. The gorge is so narrow that we 
do not see the jug until we step inside of it, and look around with 
wondering curiosity upon its splendid curves and magnificent pro- 
portions. It is, of course, a broken jug, the ravine extending through 
andbeyondil for a considerable distance, and on one side the lines 
are imperfect, owing, doubtless, to the unusual hardness of the rocks, 
but the other side is hollowed into a perfect resemblance of the inside 
of an immense jug, as smoothly fashioned as if turned upon a potter's 
wheel. The entire width of the Jug is about thirty-five feet at the 
bottom, and its height is not far from seventy feet. The rift at the 
top is quite narrow, admitting light enough to see with tolerable dis- 
tinctness, but leaving the upper part of the cavern in twilight gloom. 
The gorge beyond the Jug is passable for some distance. A ramble 
through this vast canon and a visit to the Jug will afford a world of 



pleasure. All the many varieties of ferns and mosses may be gath- 
ered here. 

Riffle Rocks are upon the left side of the stream, and would 
look well uu the Bhirt-fronts of the giants of olden days. They adorn 
with becoming grace the river's Bide. 

The Devil's Arm Chair. — You will wonder why the d — 1 he 
should perch his chair in such a place, unless, he, too, is an admirer 
of the wonders of nature. It is on the left and but a short distance 
from Coldwater Canon. 

Clam Banks, on the right, is so called because of the shape and 
stratification of the rocks, bearing close resemblance to gigantic clam- 
shells. 

Leland's Point is a striking feature of the scenery on the right 
and a little further up the river than the Clam Banks. A few rods 
beyond is 

The Pines, a name Mr. Robinson has given his new and exceed- 
ingly pretty and attractive resort. It is situated high above and com- 
mands a fine view of the river from both the house and ground.-. 

Cameleox ( avf. is a seam in the bank, and can only he visited by 
climbing a ladder, going to the high bank, and then down into the 
earth. You will need a guide ami the light of a lantern to reach the 
bottom. It contains beautiful, changing mosses. It is on the right, 
just below' Steamboat Rock. 

Steamboat Bock will challenge especial attention. It stands, an 
island, in a curious, circular cove, and vastly resembles, from some 
points, a huge ocean steamer, minus smokestack and wheel-house. It 
is probably about 250 feet long by 100 feet wide and Bome 40 to 50 feel 
in height, witli perpendicular, rugged sides and covered with pine, 
oak and shrubbery. 

Rood's Glen. — This is just beyond Steamboat Rock, on the right, 
its entrance marked by a little sand liar, ami extending back from the 
river about six hundred feet. .Similar to Coldwater Canon, or almost 
a cavern, it is a place all admire who visit it while on the down-stream 
trip in a row boat. 



Akch Cove or Paradise is a delightful place for picnic parties. 
It is from here you will get the best view of the many islands at the 
head of the Dells, and a magnificent view of the river for a long dis- 
tance. The cove is a beautiful, shady recess, and contains an elegant 
spring of pure, fresh water. It is on the left hand side of the river, 
nearly opposite the mouth of 

"Witches' Gulch. — At the head of the Dells, on the right, extend- 
ing three-quarters of a mile from the shore, will be found this re- 
markable Gulch. The precipitous rocks tower aloft on either side to 
the height of perhaps a hundred feet, their sides being worn smooth 
and their ragged edges rounded off by the long-continued action of 
the water. One can almost touch with outstretched arms both sidi - i ! 
this gloomy gorge, which surpasses in grandeur anything hitherto 
Seen in the Dells. The rocks overhead are in many places shelving 
and rounded into immense scollops. The stream through this wild 
pass is in many places waist-deep. It contains many curious points — 
a miniature waterfall, Phantom Chamber, Diamond Grotto, and hun- 
dreds of other remarkable features, that to describe justly would 
take more room than our space affords. No one visiting the Dells 
should fail to see this wild, weird and tortuous Gulch. It challenges 
the admiration of all who see it, with its strange, marvelous, startling 
grandeur. 

The Islands. — From the entrance to the Dells, or "upper jaws," 
we have an elegant view of the river, bluffs ami islands for a long dis- 
tance. This view is often compared to a similar scene on Lake George- 
Here the river "spreads itself all over the country, as it were-, and i> 
full one-half mile in width and very shallow, the water in summer 
being not over one or two feet in depth. About three-fourths of a 
mile from Witches' Gulch we find, on the left bank, a number of inter- 
esting points, which can be reached with small boats, except in very 
low water, by ascending Blazier's Creek, emptying into the river at 
the foot of Blazier's Bock. A narrow but easily accessible pathway, 
amid ferns and shrubbery, leads up along the side of the hill to that 
curious natural phenomenon, 



Hornets' Nkst, which has the shape and, at a short distance, the 
genet al appearance of an immense hornets' nest. It serves as a pillar 
in front of a natural portico, the rock having in the course of time been 

washed out, leaving a flat roof 
overhead, with the Hornets' 
Nesl as its principal support. 
Passing through the archway 
formed by this singular rock, 
we ascend and follow the hill- 
side for a few rods, and pres- 
ently stand in 

Luncheojj Hall. — The 
waters have at some remote 
period sweptthrough here with 
great force, wearing a passage 
through and under the rocks, 
and leaving the flat rocks 
which formerly stood at the 
" top of the heap " asa natural 
roof for the hall, which is of 
considerable extent, and a 
favorite place for picnic parties. 
I'll.- roof has a single break, a 
few inches wide; otherwise it 
is perfect; and the rocks which 
support it furnish convenient seats and tables. 

Located on the top of a ridge, the hall [.resents a grand appear- 
ance to the spectator at a distance, and commands a tine view of the 
river. Once within its massive portals, awe gives place to curiosity, 
and the visitor finds pleasure in observing the odd shapes which the 
rocks have assumed under the slow but persistent action of the cur- 
rent which once swept the Wisconsin Valley, leaving its impress on 





Fw 



y. *■■ 



ST A Mi R< 



every hill, and cutting its way through the rocks until it formed the 
romantic channel through which the river now runs. A short dis- 
tance from Luncheon Hall, we find the wonderful 

St\xi> Rock. — To reach this, we ascend the hank a short distance 
ami follow along the edge of the ridge, coming to the rock upon the 
upper side. People with sufficient nerve, and not ha\ ing an immedi- 
ate fear of the hereafter, can reach the top of the Stand by a leap of 
some eight feet. If you miss your footing you will probably fetch up 
forty f,t below. The top of the rock— a large sandstone slab— is 
nearly as level as a floor, and its superficial area is about eighteen by 
twenty-four feet. A pathway leads to the foot of it, and the view from 
below is more interesting than that from above. The water-rounded 
column which supports the superpoised tablet is of rather irregular 
shape and is forty-six feet high. With tin- neighboring rock a sort of 
arch is formed, somewhat resemblingthe cavernous opening at Lunch- 
eon Hall. All around is a scene of beauty. The hills are covered with 
trees clothed with magnificent summer foliage; a tine farm, trees and 
shurbe spread out up-riverward, and the glen is full of ferns and flow- 
ers, in gorgeous profusion. A part of a day devoted to this locality is 
time well spent. 

This ends this brief and imperfect description of the principal 
points in the Upper Dells. But the tourist will find along the entire 
way, from the steamer's landing to Stand Rock, hundreds of other 
cut ions and interesting points that are not named or laid down on the 
map. In the vicinity of Stand Rock is the Squaw's Bed Chamber, a 
curious cave in the hillside, Vizor Ledge, ami many others, all of 
which should he visited. 

To reach the interesting objects at the head of the Dells, such as 
Stand Rock, Luncheon Hall, etc, that are not easily reached by 
steamer, the tourist can employ a carriage and enjoy a few miles' ride 
through the woods. It is a most pleasant feature for a clay's en- 
joyment. 



11 



Zbc lower ©ells. 



Your stay at the Dolls will not be complete unless you visit the 
i Dells, which extend for three miles belov the village. The 
river here is broader and the banks present a greatei diversity of 
bluff and 1 nit ton i : but the character of the rocks composing the banks 
is the same, and a similar though varied succession of curious and 
pleasing forms is presented. The rocks, as in the Upper Dells, have been 
worn and hollowed and rounded into every imaginable shape except 
that of " Rock Me to Sleep;" we are almost sure that some close ob- 
server will yel discover " Rock the Cradle " somewhere in this vicin- 
ity. In some placee greal shelves, with stalwart young pines grow ing 
upon their very edges, overhang the dark waters; elsewhere perpen- 
dicular walls loom up like the front of some vast fortification, and a 
little further on a similar wall is supplanted with coigns, bastions, 
projecting towers and covered archways; again the rocks are rounded 
at their bases so as to resemble the sterns of small vessel — much in- 
ferior in 6ize and appearance to the ponderous hulks at the Navy Yard 
in the Dells above. Then the rocks slope gently downward 1 

grassy vale, where a pretty farm gives charming variety to the 
panorama, and on the opposite side broad bottom, where Newport 
once stood in her pride, now interesting in her remarkable decay 
Farther down the river are the more noted objects which claim the 
attention of tourists, and which we will attempt in our way to de- 
scribe when we gel to them. 

The lofty banks here, as in the Upper Dells, are crowned with a 
luxuriant growth of trees, shrub, plants and grass. The first attrac- 
tion after leaving the landing is 

Echo Poixt. —Standing upon the rocky cliff where the tunnel from 
Taylor's Glen comes out from under the railroad, any unusual eleva- 
tion of the voice brings a prompt and distinct response from the 



massive, smooth-faced cliff opposite, every word and tonebeingre- 
peated with surprising clearness and accuracy. A little farther down 
and on the same side ,.f the river, is 

Bear's Cave. — It is a hole in the 
rock with a cleft extending out to the 
edge of the cliff, and thence downward 
t,, the water'- edge, the cave forming 
a recess near the top, into which you 
may descend if you choose; but you 
will find it bare, the- bear having moved 
away some time ago. From the rift 
grows a large pine, which does not seem 
to pine much for Bruin's company. A 
little further down on the same side, is 

Chimney Rock. — A little less in size 
than the one up the river, but greatly 
resembling it in situation and appear- 
ance. Then comes the Pulpit, standing 
near the water's edge and shaped like 
the sacred desk in some sanctuaries. 
Below this on the river, hut above it in 
t, is 

Observation Poixt, standing 
which you obtain a magnificent view. 
both up and down the river and ai 
the country for miles toward the sou i. On the opposite side ia 

Stvltz Bock, once a tei i raftsmen, and so named for one 

of them whose raft struck it and went to pieces, leaving him clinging 
to one of the crags of the rock all night in a terrible storm. Here, 

to,,, i- 

Tiie Hawk's Bill, showing against the sky at the top "f the cliff 
as you approach it from either up or ,1 ,wn the stream, very lil 
wide-open beak of a bird of gigantic proportions. This spot, too, was a 




.HAWK S BU.L. 



SiGxal Peak, upon which the red men used to light their signal 
fires to warn their people up and down the river of the approach of 
enemies or the coming of a friendly tribe. A little way back from 




SUGAR BOWL. 



here is the summer home ufMi;. S. II. Keefoot and family. Mr. Ker- 
foot is .>ne of Chicago's most respected and well-known citizens, who 
here finds health and recreation in making the desert bloom as a gar- 
den. His premises have a river frontage of quite a mile down tin- 
stream from a short distance above Stultz Rock, embracing much of the 
finest of the scenery in the Lower Dells and which afford him and his 
friends great pleasure, not, however, to the exclusion from its beauties 
of anyone who would not mar or injure its attractions. Proceeding on 
on our way past the old Town of New port, on the right, we come to 



Si o m: Bowl, which stands out in the stream, as cleverly moulded 
as one could wish. The shape of this singular freak of nature is very 
true to its name. We pull around it, but despair of getting at the 
inside of it. because the lid is on tight, and held down by a miniature 
forest of pine-. 

Cave or the Dark Waters is in Grotto Rock, just to the right of 
Sugar Bowl, a cavern which you can go into and through with a row 
boat an.l see other openings or passageways that are too small and 
crooked to get a boat through. The cave was sometimes called by the 
Indians "Place of the Nah-hu-nah," (sturgeon). A few rods down a 
channel of tic river, that is dry during the low water in summer, is 
another and smaller cave, which is easily reached by a short walk and 
well repays the trouble. We have seen nothing in this vicinity more 
curious and wonderful than this rock, the outer walls and internal 
caverns of which show the shaping effects of different currents and 
eddies of water. Mr. Bennett has secured fine stereoscopic views of 
the rock and it i i ecesses. 

Tin: Inkstaxd next claims our attention. At first view it seems a 
counterpart of the Sugar Bowl, bu1 wesoonpi i lifiference. The 

rock, entire at the top, partsa little way down, and the passage tap- 
ering gradually is, at the water, wide enough to admit a small ca 
Tt is. you perceive, a counting-house inkstand, with two compartments, 
the larger for black and thesmaller for red ink. It bristles on top with 
small pines, which, with the aid of an india rubber imagination, may 
be taken for quill pens, wherewith in the golden age, when the gods 
practiced the ways of men. Mercury wrote- heavj leaders, and Minerva 
love stories, poetry and paragraphs for the Olympian Thunderer. Per- 
haps some classical e-codger may laugh at us for assigning such literary 
trifling to the Goddess of Wisdom. Laugh, then, and gather fatness 
on the ribs! Did not Solomon indite to his Ethiopian Queen a love- 
song 80 sweet and suggestive that the church accepts it as inspired 
from on high? Did he not deal in witty sayings and pungent para- 



graphs which the itemizer of to-day, with the aid of the medical 
almanacs, vainly attempts 1" imitate? Did not St. Peter strike the 
liar — dead? Have not wise men in all ages turned to light literary 
work as a relaxation? Very well, then, ('ease digression! We 
cannot carry away this inkstand, it is too firmly fixed and heavy to be 
remove. 1; so we again turn our prow down stream to 

Lone Rock, which stands in massive majesty mid-river, smiling 
with its summer chaplet of verdure up.ui the tawny flood that washes 

its feet. It is a broad oval in 
shape. We cannot give its 
exact dimensions. As we ap- 
proach we find that its - 
are perforated with caverns. 
into the largest of which you 
can go to the center and 
through the rock. 

There i- much else of in- 
terest in a trip to the Lower 
1'ells, in fact, every rod ..f 
the river and its shores are so, 
though in no place so narrow 
as the Narrows, and without 
any Witches' Gulch or Cold- 
water Canon of the Upper 
Dells, unless you are willing 
to take a walk of a mile from 
the river at one place t. 

Congress Hall, a very re- 
markable and curious rock 
glen similar to the Canon ami 
Gulch. Thebestway t< ■ reach 
it, however, is by carriage and return through the pretty Village of 
Delton, which is near by. Here, too, is 




Mikrob Lake, celebrated for its scenic beauty in rock formations 
and bewildering reflections. The stories of truthful parties of the ex- 
cellent bass and pickerel fishing there, are often fully proven by the 
tine strings offish they show. 

Taylor's Glex. — Just a pleasant walk at the southern limits of 
Kilbourn, is a choice hit of the beautiful which no tourist should fail 
to visit. You can do the Glen in a before-breakfast walk, and so while 
j on enjoya half-hour of the rarest scenery hereabouts, you can at the 
same time cultivate an appetite for steak and coffee, which will make 
breakfast a delight. While down there don't fail to go through the 
tunnel to the riverside, and challenge the saucy echo which shouts 
at evervho.lv who savs a word there. 



LOOKIN.i OCT OK CAVE IN ION > 




LONE ROCK 



I i Riosn ii:s of Adams .i\n Juneau Counties. — Northwest from llie 
Dells for thirty or thirty-five miles, and along the line of the Chicago, 
Milwaukee c«c St. Paul Railroad, plainly seen from the car windows, 

are many strange rock 
formations to interest 
the traveler, varying in 
height from fifty to one 
hundred and fifty feet, 
ri s i n g perpendicular 
from the level country 
like castles or f irt- 
r e s e e s . made up of 
towers, columns and 
pillars so like the work 
of man as to almost 
bring the belief that 
they were built by 
some am ient race of 
people. You can take 
a morning train at Kil- 
boui-n and go to ' 'amp 
Douglass, mar where 
are situated some of 
the must interesting of 

PILLAR ROCK. tllc-e fo 1' HI a t i (i 11 s , 

among which are the " Giant's Castle." " Phantom Cathedral," "Bee 
Blun"," "Giant's Tomb," "Pillar Rock" and "Target BlufT,"and return 
in the evening, if you desire. If your visit should be in June or July 
yen would likely find s e one of Wisconsin's four Infantry Regi- 
ments of National Guard in earn p. learning all the arts of war possible 
without the actual thing, in which they are sometimes joined by a 
troop of " regulars." The rifle range at this camp is said to be 
the best in this country, ami our Badger Boldiers have become very 




proficient in target practice; dies- parade each evening attracts crowds 
from all directions and c|iiite long distances, both by railroad and 
teams. North from the Dells, through a good part of Adams County, 
there are a great many quite as remarkable rocks as those northwest, 
but not as easy of access. Without doubt all the region above men- 
tioned has been a lake that has been drained away by the Wisconsin 
1 liver in cutting its way through the Units once constituting its south- 
ern shore and thence to the Mississippi, and what an interesting lake 
it must have been, dotted at frequent intervals with these castles and 
towers standing high and imposingly above its Burface. 

The student of geology will certainly find the whole region worthy 
of investigation, and particularly in the fossil markings found in the 
rock near New Lisbon. 




giant's castle. 



16 



©evil's TLaltc. 



Xaftc flDason. 



This remarkable sheet of water has been so often described that 
it will be alums) unnecessary to refer to it in these pages. It is situ- 
ated about seventeen 
miles from Kilbout n 
and three from Bara- 
boo, Sauk County. It, 
is peculiar to itself, and 
is unrivalled in pictur- 
esque grandeur, and 
next to the Dells is 
the most charming re- 
sort in Wisconsin. 
There is an elegant 
hotel over there at the 
uorth end of the lake, 
the Clif! House, \\ hen 
tourists will find every 
comfort, while, at the 
south cod of the lake 
is situated Kirkland, 
with its wine cellar, 
and row of pretty little 
cotta ges near the 
beach, for the use of 

DEVIL'S DOOR WAY. those who may wish 

to spend their vacation at this most delightful resort, and which 
is under the direction of the owner, Mr. N. C. Kirk, a genial, courte- 
ous gentleman. A tine little steamer, row boats, picnic grounds and 

many facilities for enjoyment can be had there. A carriage ride from 

Kilbourn to the lake is very enjoyable. 




About seven miles from Kilbourn is Briggsville, in Marquette 
( '011 ni y — a quiet, prettj village, having a store or two and an excellent 
hotel. Here, also, is the celebrated Lake .Mason, where the disciples 
of Izaak Walton can spend a. most delightful day in fishing or troll- 
ing for pickerel and black bass. The pond is two miles in length by 
one noli' in width. The water is pure and cool. 

Jordan Lake is some fourteen miles from Kilbourn, in a uorth 
easterly direction, and is represented as being excellent fishing 
grounds. Goose Lake is a fine sheet of water in the same neighbor- 

1 d. Crooked Lake is some miles further along, and both contain 

excellent lish. Duckel's Lake is s e seventeen miles from Kil- 
bourn, and abounds in lish. These lakes are all in Adams Countv. 



XCbrouob tbe Bells. 



BY PERMISSION OF F. 0. WI5NER. 



BY JOHN CLERKE. 



I. 

Summer Bunlight, warm and tender, glowed wilh splendor on the wave 
An tin- crowded Bteamer plowed it, with a fare of fair and brave; 
Freighted with a wealth of beauty, weighted with a world of love, 
Bosoms lighter, faces brighter, ne'er were smiled on from above. 
Joyously our hearts were beating, as the fleeting waters Bed 
Swiftly past her, as yet faster toward the .laws the Dell Qua n sped. 
From ner splashing paddles rolled the flashing waves in seething swells, 
As she bore us where bet'.. re us lay the wild Wisconsin Hells. 

And a beautiful maiden from Baral , 

"Willi eyes like voilets bathed in dew, 

Close I" her Kilbourn lover drew, 
And gazed in silent wonder. 

II. 

Weird and strange all! Here the Angel once displayed her carven 

form ; — 
She has vanished -rudely banished by the angry flood and storm. 

All an mi in I there, w here a I id their homes within the brown cliff's 

breast, 

Iter as they Mil, or circling sock the rock-hewn nest. 

.1 



Dreast, 
Swallow's twitter as they flitj or circling seek the rock-hewn nest. 
High Rock, towering, lilts his lowering front o'ergrown with firs am 

fern; 
Opposite, Romance Cliff, frow uing grim, looks down in aspect stern. 
( Ihimney Rock, a shape fantastic, formed by plastic Nature's hands, 
On a jutting rock abutting, quaint and solitary stands. 

Vlll I lii> I ii i I M t I I I 1 I tii'liiliitl {*>-..tii I ' ■! >'■■ ] i. .. . 



i i m k iiiiii^, 1 1 u.i i ii i a no son ia i \ si a I mis 

Ami the beautiful maiden from Baraboo, 
With cheeks likeadelicate peach in hue, 
Was charmed at once by the singular view, 
Anil exclaimed, Well, now, 1 never!'' 



■ hi; 
fold, 
bund, 
round! 

.' .h.W II, 

w, 
go. 



III. 

Standlnghere by Allen's Landing is the Dell House gray ami . 
Trees above it — sure they love it — graciously their green arms 
< bray and lonely ! Once the only inn throughout this region i 
1 low its rafters rung with laughters when the raftsmen w ere a 
i hi war. I steering, we are nearing Chapel < forge, where looking 
As inviting to unite in worship, stands the Chapel brown. 
Pause and wonder now, where under rocky arches dim and lo 
slowly floating a small boat in, through the Boat Cave we may 
A ml the Kilbourn youth, whose heart was true, 

To the beautiful maiden from Baral , 

Said to her — " 1 larling, let's 1 and you — " 
Said she — "( > dear, you're so sudden !" 



Swiftly swerving round the curving channel here in Circle Bend, 
Navy Yard's stout fleet is prompt to meet us, whether foe or friend, 
Eaton's Grotto pleases all (or ought to) who upon it look, 
but their time they idly squander who long ponder Sturgeon Rock. 
Here the twilight gloom of Skylight Cave is lighted through a rift— 
We may view it well as through it in a little boat we drift. 
We shall miss it if we visit not the famous Gates' Ha vine, 
Where a hundred curious objects to be wondered at are seen. 
And the Kilbourn lover, so fond and true, 
I lis li|is to the ear of t he maiden drew, 
And whispered— "Dear, it's as pretty as — you, 
And one day we will go there." 



1« 



V. 
Hasten by it! Go not nigh it ! 'Tis the Devil's Elbow named; 
Those strong sinews once brought in use, e'en the boldest would be 

Here oldBlack Hawk on his pony leaped from stony bank to bank, 

\nd eluded his pursuers, in secluded cavern dank. 

This strange tower, with tree and flower upsprmging from its topmost 

Rattlesnake Rock— now no rattle warns that battle must he .lone. 
Notch Kock here, the raftsmen's terror-slightest error causes wreck, 
When from Sliding Bock swift gliding scarce their mad career they 

And the beautiful maiden from Baraboo, 
Was somewhat startled, and puzzle. 1, too, 
\s the Dell Qua n steadily pushed on through 
The rapid and intricate Narrows. 
VI. 
Artists' Glen is full of grandeur, could we land here to explore, 
Bufwe're brought to tie Coldw'ater Canyon, further up the shore. 
Much admire we, never tire we, of the scenery new and strange, 
Deep glens charming vet alarming, beyond fancy's wildest range. . 
la , the rugged path we tread in rocks o'erhead in threat mng guise, 
Fr wnim oldU l..o.d do* Q boldly, till we half avert our eves; 

;™M(„o 1S trOUS Devil's Jug. (What revels w,d were held 

When this vessel was the wassail pitcher oi the Sends Id. ) 

But the beautiful maiden from Baraboo, 
With a confident look in her eyes so blue, 
Clung to her lover the whole way through, 
Nor showed a siun of terror. 
VII. 
Jug stupendous! what tremendous power hath formed and placed thee 

Was't some Titan who of old time took delight in wine or beer? 
Or with whiskj were they frisky « ho were wont their cares to float 
, V, !', 'eious liquor poured from thj capacious, gurgling throat . 
Did thev guszle from tfie nozzle? or did each one have a mug 
As they quaffed full many a draught, and laughed and frolicked round 

Did they drink it then with "sweetW in." and think it "powerful 

In th, 'winter with hot water, and in hotter days with ice? 

But what cared the maiden from l.aral 

What those old tipplers used to do, 
So long as she had her lover true 



VIII. 
Mighty pitcher! were we richer- hut we stifle the fond thought; 
The crusaders would invade us, kepi we such a Jug-o'-naught; 
So we sever Up the river other marvels on US wail : 
I "evil's Vrnr Chair, late in which old Satan sat in solemn state ; 
lam Hank, which no clams are found in, not abounding in the VS est; 
•utile a , whose ruffles would of kissing scuffles stand the test ; 
Steamboat Sock, a packet, stat.lv, though not lately in the trade; 
RoodVsGlen oval-shaped, and novel in the quaintnesses displayed. 
And the Kilhoitrn lover, so honest and true, 
Whispered the maiden from Baraboo, 
"If vim love meas I love you 

We'll be married in I! 1 S Glen some day. 



Ho 
B 



IX. 
Hone-s Bee Spring, which on sunny days the honey-makers seek; 
Eagle Point, a feature striking, shapen like an eagle sbeak; 
\ ™h < V.ve fairv bower airy, famed tor Petnaqua well, 
Witches' * Gulch, wM and enchanting-weird folk haunting herein 

Horne^Nist, from Cliff suspended, semblance splendid, grand and 

1 uncheon Hall, an n cavern-basket tavern, free to all; _ 

St, el or the De'il's Tea Table-if you're able, (mil spring ! 

Many ore surprising features of Dameftature s might we sue,. 
But the beautiful maiden from Baraboo 
And her Kilboiirn lover, so fond and true, 
Have sat them down to bill and coo, 
lake a pair of turtle doves ! 

X. 

How were all those wondrous objects formed among the pond'rous 

Some primeval -rand upheaval shook the land with frequent shocks ; 
Cav^rnsv^wne^andfissures widened; tempests strident filled the air; 
M^dlvuS foaming surges through the gorges opened there; 

ssM^a^ss^ssrssf^^^ 



Dells! 



From Kilbournc 



ose beside her'.' 



() beautiful maiden from Baraboo, 

And Kilboiirn lover, so lender and true, 

We must bid vou now a tearful adieu; 

But we hope to be there With the pan- 



19 



Zhc Xcocnb of tbe IRontancc Cliff. 



BY PERMISSION OF F. O. WISNER. 



It is matter of historj that something less than a hundred years 
ago tin- lair John .lar.. I. Astor, in the prosecution of his gigantic 
scheme to control tin- Cur trade of the world, established a line of 
trading posts along tin- western shore of Lake Michigan, with sub- 
stations at convenient distances from the main line, on the principal 
rivers of the region then known as "Ouisconsin 

Among these outposts, was an important one at Fort Winnebago, 
near the site of the now thriving City of Portage. At the time of 
which we write, Astor had in his employ at this point about twenty 
men trappers, traders, interpreters, packmen, etc. It was customarj 
1 1 certain seasons of the year to send out a part) "I' six or eight men 
from iti'- rmi, in visit the various Indian camps within reach, for the 
purpose of encouraging the chiefs to exert themselves to collect as 
many fiii-s as possible during the season, and to promise them good 

, upon delivery at the fort. Some one of the more 

intelligent of the employes was ordinarily placed in charge of such 
detachment, with the tempi irary rank and title of captain. 

[n the summer of 17 -, a party of this sort sot out from the fort, 
under command of a new recruit, named .loan Baptiste De Riviere, 

who passed for a Canadian half-br 1. This man, familiarly known 

among his comrades as "Handsome John," was a very intelligent 
young man. was well educated in French and English, and possessed 
all the shrewdness of an Indian, combined with not a little French 
sauvity of manners. He wasa pleasant, companionable fellow, full of 
chat concerning all else save himself, but on this subject he was 
reticent. 

The destination of the party under De Riviere was the portion of 

Wisconsin now included w it bin the bounds of the Towns of Newport 

an. I Delton, and ils special mission to visit Wau-hat-tan, an influential 

Li ' of the Winnebago Indians. During a portion of each year, and 



especially during the fishing season, Wau-hat-tan with a part of his 
tribe occupied the low ground on the right bank of the Wisconsin 
River, opposite the site of the present Village of Kill. ..urn City. The 
spot is know n among people in this region now as " Hurlburt Mats." 
and is still annually occupied for a season by the degenerate posterity 
of the old chief. 

A ft or a leisurely tram), along the beautiful shores of the Wisconsin, 
I>o Riviere's party reached the camp of Wau-hat-tan early in the after- 
noon of the second day. Most of the party were old trappers and had 
made frequent visits to the Winnebago ram]., but the ( 'aptain, being a 
now hand, had never met with ^iis tribe before. After the customary 
salutations, the old chief, attired in his host, beckon oil the Captain to 
a seat on the mat covered ground, inside his wigwam. Here, through 

the 1 Hum of an interpreter, they held a long conversation, chiefly 

i :erning the power and wealth of the " Great paleface, Astor," and 

of the wonderful things he had done and promised to do for his brother, 
" the great Wau-hat-tan." De Riviere .li.l liis best to impress the old 
chief with the importance of gathering much fur for his employer, and 
by his skillful address so won the confidence of bis host that he was 
nil the best quarters the camp afforded, with a squaw special!; 
selected to wait upon him. The talk being over, De Riviere was con- 
ducted to his quarters, and the comely, gaudily dressed Lo-wel-li-ta 
(familiarly called " Lo '" i followed to pro pan- his supper. Stretched 
at his ease on a couch of ferns covered with boar-skin, the (aptain 
rested from his tramp, w bile his attendant busied herself at the camp 
fire over a mysterious stew, the savory odor of which already began to 
sharpen the appetite of the hungry man. His increasing desire to 
tost the flavor of the viands, call oil his attention to the process of prep- 
aration, and, with the eye of a Frenchman, he began to note the pecu- 

* It is a remarkable coincidence thai I'opi has adopted this ni fui his Indian 

hill."' 



liarly graceful figure which stooped over the fire. Directly, as she 
turned toward the wigwam, lie caught a glimpse of the features of the 
maiden, and was so impressed with the marked refinement and beauty 
of the face, that his interest in the cuisine gave place to a new interest 

in the c k. A few more stirrings and seasonings of the broth, and 

supper was ready. Willi flic graceful air of a lady, the girl -for such 
she evidently was, and thai not beyond her twenty-second year- 
beckoned our captain to the rare .ami, table, being nothing less than 
t, i own hands. As she passed him a rude dish of steaming pottage, 
John admired the finely moulded arm and the delicate taper fii 
His natural politeness suggested an English "thank you," and he 
thought,as be caughl ber eye, that it was not an Indian eye, and he 
was sure that beneath all her paint the maiden blushed. Our captain 

himself i ed an attractive, manly face and figure, and bad a 

right to his camp sobriquet, though the name Beemed little to bis taste, 
and its general adoption among his companions evidently annoyed 
him. As he sat there vis-a vis with the waiting damsel, the suspicion 
became so strong that she was something more than her surroundings 
indicated that he grew embarrassed in her presence, and despite his 
appetite be made but an uncomfortable supper. He wanted to speak 
to her, but he knew nothing of the Indian languag* , nor could he be 
at all certain that she kne* French or English. After supper how- 
ever, and while the simple table furniture was cleared away, he had a 
little time to think, and he determined to ascertain, if possible, if there 
W aeany ground for hissuspicion. it occurred to him thai it might not 
be prudent to address the girl in the presence or in the hearing of the 
Indians, and, as they were so near by, deferred his attempt at conver- 
sation until a more favorable opportunity. An hour later, the dwell 
,,s in the wigwam nearesl the one he occupied being out, he ven- 
tured to speak. The girl was just returning from the creek where 
she had been for water, and as she passed his door the Captain ad- 
dressed her in a low voice, in English: ^ 

■• Maiden!" he said, "are you really what you seem? 



With a frightened glance toward the other wigwams, she placed 
her finger on her lips and gave him one pleading look, which was 
a sufficient answer to his question, with an added caution, by which 
he profited. The maiden hurried on about her work, and John 
ejaculated under his breath: " English, by Jove, and blue eyed! I'll 
take her hint of silence just now, but I'll know more about this." 

So saying, he laid down, to bide his time. Night was c ing on, 

and there was an early mdon. There was an opening under the side 
of the wigwam, and through this he watched for Lo-wel-li-ta, watched 
with the eagerness of a lover, and truth to tell, the heart of the man 
had experienced within the last hour what was, to him, a new sensation. 

I, i me tell the reader a little more about Handsome John. He 
was a native of France, but his family moved to Canada in his child- 
hood. There was a quiet home by the river side, not far from Quebec 
a home not of luxury, but of refinement and culture-and an anxious 
household waited there for tidings of a wanderer. The only son of the 
family, kind and gentle, talented and amiable, was a restless adven- 
turer ; and, while the mother prayed that night, the boy for whom 
she prayed lay watching for the form of an Indian girl among these 
far-off Western wilds. 

Eager for excitement, the young man had pushed his way into the 
employ of the great fur dealer in New York, asking to be sent to the 

frontier ; and, with a hasty letter ofg l-bye to 1 le and friends, he 

set out on the first expedition, and here we find him, peeping out 
into the moonlight from an Indian wigwam, and eagerly listening for 
a footfall which, nothing to him three hours ago, was yet so much to 
him now that his anxiety I'm ils approach grew to wearisome impa- 
tience long before bis ear caught the rustle of leaves from the grove 
just behind his couch. He started at the sound, but, remembering the 
warning of the maiden, he moved cautiously toward the openu 
attract her attention, and, as she passed, quietly placed in her hand a 
leaf from his note-book, on which he had written : 

"I am your friend. Can 1 serve you? [fS0, conn,, a. id me. 

" Your servant, 

■■ John B. De Rivikke." 

21 



He thought thai the girl was deeply agitated, and that she trem- 
bled as she passed; but? renewing the sign of silence, she passed on, 
and he lay tossing and thinking till late in the night, but at last he fell 
asleep, and only woke when the nun came pouring full in hi* face and 
everybody about camp was astir. He rose hastily, and, seeing some 
of his men on their way to the creek, followed them, and, having re- 
freshed himself with a bath, returned for his breakfast. Lo-wel-li-ta 
again attended him, but he could not catch her eye, and dared not 
speak, so his breakfast, though excellent, was only half enjoyed. A fter 
eating, he paid a visit t<> the old chief, smoked a pipe with him, but 
made- little com creation. Wau-hat-tan made all the promises concern- 
ing business that could be asked for, and, having distributed a few 
ti inkers among the Indians, the Captain began his preparations for a 
visit to another camp, a mile away. In giving directions to his men 
In' took care to speak loud enough to be heard through all tin 
warns, Bhouting: 

" Peter ! you and Louis go on ahead and find a place close by the 
river to camp, and we'll use our own tent to-night." 

The quick ear id' Lo-wel-li-ta caught the words of command, and 
she suspected that they were intended, in pan, tnr In i benefit. The 
Captain and Ids party wen- soon off, and a half In mi's stroll brought 
them tn the bank nl' the river, just where the huge cliffs IVi i w n a I i .11 1 1 
nihil- across the narrow passage at the foot of the rapids. The two 
men Who had been sent on ahead had selected a camp near I he foot 
of the clitC. The tent was soon pitched, and all hands set to work to 
make themselves comfortable. A tire was lighted directly, and their 
pork and bread, kettle and frying-pan were unpacked for use. line 
or t wo started off down the st ream with fishing tackle, while the I lap- 
tain, with an interpreter, visited the Indian lodge near by. The day 
passed pleasantly, and when night set in the party, surrounding a 
huge camp- lire, made themselves merry for an hour or two with song 
and story, and then all but the * 'a plain lay down in their blankets and 

were Soon asleep. 

De Riviere was busy with his own thoughts and hopes and expec- 



tations, and they all clustered just then around the mysterious maiden, 
I ,o w cl-1 i -la. It was near midnight, and the bright moon was pouring 
all its glory across the beautiful stream at his feet. A little wearied by 
watching, he lay, half reclining, by the fire, enjoying the charming 
pros]. ect. when suddenly a quick shadow passed close behind the tent, 

and a low voice reached his ear, with the brief su ons, " C 

De Eiviere rose quickly to his feet. The shadow was gone, but a 
stealth) foot si ep rustling over the leaves guided him, and he followed 
till he reached the sum mil of the cliff. All was black and still. Then 
he caught the glimpse of a ha ml beckoning him in the moonlight. He 
stepped forward a few feel toward the edge of the cliff, when suddenly 
a strong I land seized hi in by the throat, ami, before he could oiler any 
resistance, he found himself bound hand and foot and thrust, into a 
crevice of the rock in such a way thai he could scarcely move a limb. 
A rough band bound a belt of wampum about his face, which effect- 
ually prevented bis seeing or speaking above a whisper. "Ugh! 
stealee squaw me," said a voice close t" his ear, and, after some further 
precautions to prevent his escape, the owner of the voice added: 

"Heap good place slay. Cine again," with which comforting assur- 
ance old Wau-hat-tan, for be it was, stole stealthily away down the 
el ill'. " "Well, well," thought the Captain, "this is a predicament, sure 
enough," and be began to struggle to free his hands. But the old 
chief had done his work very thoroughly, and, after a severe effort, 
De Riviere gave up for the present ami began to think. Let us leave 
him thinking, reader, while we go back a moment to the camp of 
Wau-hat-tan. It seems that w ith true I udian precaution the chief had 
set an old sipiaw to watch the Captain and bis attendant the night 
before, and she, understanding a little English, had caught the words 
lie Riviere had Spoken, noticed the scared look of the girl, and it was 
she, instead of Lo-wel-li-ta, who passed by in the moonlight and re- 
ceived the note, repeating the sign she had seen the girl use, so that 
De Riviere was completely deceived. All this was duly revealed I" 
the chief, anil the note passed over to hi in. TMb note was, of course, 
no use as proof, for no one there could read, but the old fellow's bus- 



picions were aroused, and directly the fort party had left the camp Lo- 

W el-li-ta was placed under strict surveillance. At night,as we have 
seen, Wan-hat-tan sought his revenge for what he evidently considered 

an attemptto steal his squaw. 

After securing De Riviere the chief returned to his camp. 1'unng 
hi8 ab8 ence a party who had been out on a hunting expedition had 
come in. They had called at the fort on their way in, and had ob- 
tained among their purchases, a to,, plentiful supply of fire-water. 
The Winnebagoes loved whisky then as well as they do now, and before 

,,„„ aing old Wau-hat-tan and his whole camp were sound and last in 
a drunken sleep. Lo-wel-li-ta was on the look-out, and watched 
with ,.,,„.,. anxietv the effect of the spirits till satisfied that all was 
safe she stole softly away, and in a fe« moments stood beside the tent 
on the river hank, she suspected thai th,re had been foul play, for 
B he had lean! Wau-hat-tan go away in the night and return. By a 
cau ti us survey of the camp she became satisfied that De Riviere was 
gone but where? that was the question. She dare not wake the men 
to inquire, and, as it was growing light, she was about to return, when 
her quick eve caught sight of a hit. of paper Boating past, just at the 
edge of the stream. She hastily descended the hank and picked .1 up. 

On it was written: " On the cliff. Comequick. Lei;.- And s ler 

than I can tell the story. the daring girl had scaled tie- rock and stood 
listening A -roan attracted her attention, and she hastened to the 
e d g e of the precipice, and there, in a crevice just below her, lay De 
Riviere Wter a most painful exertion he had succeeded ... freeing 
,„„, h and, and had torn the wampum oil' his face, hut his body was so 
wedged in between the rocks, and his feet so bound together, that he 

,,„,!,! ,,„, help himself. With his free hand he had taken out his note 

book and, having written a message on each of a score oi leaves, he 

t ;,„.,„ „„, a nd throw the... out upon the river with the hope 
^ S on,e of them might he noticed and picked up by his party; and. 
witb this forlorn hope to cheer him, he had struggled to free himself 
but in vain, and he had just given up exhausted when Lo-wel-ll-ta 
dropped down beside him. Without stopping for a word or even an 



exclamation, she rut the thongs which held his feet and dragged him, 
almost lifeless, to the brow of the cliff, lie fell heavily as he reached 
the top, and lay insensible. The poor girl was in agony, hut she was 
enough to know what was the matter, and what to do. She 
quickly loosened his clothing about the throat, and with he* hands 
dipped water from a pool on the rock near her and sprinkled it in his 
face. Directly he opened his eyes with a start, and, seeming to take 
in the whole state of the ease at a glance, he cried out: " Thank ( tod," 
and then ad.led, as his eve fell upon his brave deliverer: " Surely He 
has sent His angel to save my life." "No, not an angel, sir, at all, 
hut only me," replied the girl in such pure English as revealed 
the fact that she was, as De Riviere had suspected, not a Winne- 
1,,.,, squaw, hut an English lady. " Is it possible that, you found 
one of the hits of paper in the river?" asked De Riviere. " Yes 
here it is." she replied, producing it, "And it is a miracle that 1 
discovered it, hut there is no time for explanations now, for Wau- 
hat-tan will show you no mercy if he finds you again. I know this 
country you do not; follow me." So saying, she helped him to rise, 
and then led off down the cliff, DeRiviere following as fast as he could, 
but slowly and painfully at best. Lo-wel-li-ta understood the habits 
of Wau-hat-tan and Ids hand, and knew that none of them would dis- 
cover her absence or give her a thought, until the lire-water was all 
„ ne and she remembered with such pleasure as the remembrance 
of whisky never gave before or since, that a larger supply than usual 
had been brought in. As they reached the foot of the cliff, the girl 
led the way by a circuitous path, so avoiding both .amps, down to the 
mouth Of the little creek, reaching there just as the sun was rising. 
Here hid among the bushes, was a canoe, which was quickly launched, 
and DeRiviere unwillingly submitted'to kneel amidships and permit 
his fair companion to do the work. She dropped lightly into the 
stern, and with a few vigorous strokes of the paddle sent the light 
cr aft swiftly Past the low ground and under the shadow of the chff 
below "There," said the maiden, as she blushmgly yielded the pad 
,11, to De Riviere, " now we can afford an introduction. You are the 

2S 



o 



captain of the fort party,] believe, sir, ant] [ am— well, no1 exactly 
whal [seem, and my nam.' is Margaret Stanhope. I am bere and 
bave thrust myself upon you, sir, in sheer desperation, as my first and 
only chance of escape from bondage—] pray your pardon, and now I 
: "" '" your power. I believe I can trust you, but I begyou, as you 
feai i lod, belp me ou1 of my distress." During this spirited speech, 
there was a look in her deep blue eyes which said as plainly as words 

could say it, " I am afraid I have forfeited your g I opinion, sir, bul 

I appeal to your bonor as a gentleman, and I trust you, because I 
must." De Riviere kept his eyes fixed upon ber face until she had 
finished, and then replied, more like a civilized Lover than a frontiers- 
man: '■ My dear lady, I believe I owe you my life; but were it not so, 
a lady in distress lias a claim upon me, v, hi, I,, God helping me, I will 
fail to honor. My nam,- is De Riviere, and my business bere 
you already know, but," added be, "may I be permitted to know 
something more of Miss Stanhope's history?" "Certainly," she re- 
plied, coloring a little, the name was so new to ber, " but first, what 

: " , ■ . vom ' I' L|,IS ' To go directly to tin- fort," be replied, "and it is 

probably safest and best to follow the river." " Verj well," she re- 
plied, " as yoii think best, and now for my storj in brief. My father 

wasa New Orleans reliant. Five years ago be visited the upper 

waters of the Mississippi, and with a foolish love of adventure, and 
notalittle determined obstinacy, ] fear, I earnestly begged to accom- 
l';" ,v uim - "'•■" fl re1 objected, but at length yielded to my importu- 
"''_>'■ '"'' IIIV mother die] in my infancy and I wasa petted, spoiled 
rllil,L Bu1 lef ""' make my story very short. I went with raj father 
; ""' Baw lllm brutally murdered by the Sioux Indians, r fell into 

their hands a prisoner and lived with thorn until about a yean In 

a battle between the Sioux and Winnebagoes, the latter'were victori- 
" lls ' 1 "" 1 1. with other prisoners, was brought awaj to this region, 
reaching the present camp of Wau-hat-tan a little' loss than three 
l """ ,ll> sil "'''- ' uave been generally treated with kindness bj the 
Indians; have never met with a serious insult, nor anv gross rudi 
whatever. Why, God knows. It is lie who has protected me while 






1 c 



many poor creatures of mj own sex have been most cruelly beaten 
and overtasked. On inv arrival here I soon learned that there was a 

trading station near by, and I have been watching every day foran 

opportunity to escape, and here I am." 

The thought of what this brave girl hail endured, brought tears t,, 
the Captain's eyes, and in a voice full of sympathy he thanked her 
tor her story ami her confidence. 

The sun was now well up, ami hot, lint they dare not stop. Keep- 
in- the boat under the shadow of the shore as much as possible, they 

burried on, and a little past noon they reached the fort landing and 
proceeded at once to the quarters of the commandant. There was 

not a little rude staring ami s -oarse jesting among the men who 

were lounging about when he Riviere passed in with a Winnebago 

squaw, as she appeared to he, and Miss Stanhope felt it SO keenly that 
she said to DeRiviere, "I have been nearly five years with the In- 
dians, but never have I been so ill treated in my life before as by these. 

'"> """ countrymen." A m mt's conversation with Colonel Stim- 

son, the commandant, explained all, ami i„ the hospitable home, of 
Mrs. Stimson, our heroine doffed the habiliments of the forest for 
more fitting attire, and though some traces of paint remained a long 
time to remind tier ami others ,,f the past, yet her new-found friends 
s l '"'-" t iU <- comely Lo-wel-li-ta in the beautiful form ami face, ami 

the yet i e beautiful character,..!' sweet Maggie Stanhope. 

Here she lived till the alllnmn expedition to the lake, when she, 

longing for civilization, ami Captain He Riviere longing for her, found 
their waj to \V» York. Thence they journeyed to that quiet home 
on the Canadian river, and there in after days grandfather John told 
t,. Maggiesof the third ami fourth generations, the strange story of 
grandma Lo-wel-li-ta. 

This, reader, is the romance of tl |iff over yonder, on your left 

as you enter the Hells from below. The story must be true, lot it i,- 

vouched for by a number of very respectable descendants of the great 
W u'-ii vt-t \ \. 




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